The only plan on the agenda today was our Balinese cooking lesson late afternoon. After a late breakfast on the balcony, we headed off to the pool. As this is not a pool holiday, we pretty much had our pick of loungers as only one of the six pairs loungers were taken. Another cloudy day made the surroundings pleasant and the hours we spent there comfortable.
By 3.45pm we were ready to be collected by the driver from the Paon Bali cooking school. Driving at this time through Ubud was even busier than usual and we had a slight delay. However- just another opportunity to be given more information about the culture whilst watching the street sights which are now becoming normal for us. At the sides of the roads groups of men were busy building wooden frames reaching as high as 10 metres which were causing the traffic problems. We'd already been told they were for cremations but we were surprised to see so many of them on one road. It turns out that August is the time cremations take place- with people who have died up to even five years ago being dug up from their graves to be cremated; one of the most important ceremonies for Balinese Hindus to allow the soul to be reincarnated back in to their family. These events are elaborate and as such you can see it from the enormous, highly decorated structures being built. These are then taken to the cemetery for the mass cremations to take place alongside other families, then the ashes are taken to either the sea or if the sea is too far a river.
Once through Ubud we were taken to the local rice fields owned by the family and the community where we would be cooking. Our driver explained the rice growing process to us so the next time we have rice on our plate at home- we'll realise just how lengthy and time consuming the growing process is!! Three harvests a year of white rice and only two of black, brown and red; we could see why the cost of white rice is cheaper!
The water is diverted from the mountain springs into the fields and gradually released down the terraces. Planting is a family affair as it needs to be done in a day and all the villagers plant theirs at the same time. The much needed weeding takes place regularly and once ready to harvest, most people still harvest by hand. After harvest time ducks are put on to the fields to ensure any left over rice is put to good use- becoming the fertiliser for the land! A win win situation- the ducks enjoy their food, the land gets fertilised and ducks get fatter before becoming deep fried! The remainder of the plants are then turned upside down and decompose, again making the land even more fertile ready for the next sowing of seeds!
We then arrived at the house of Wayan and Puspa where we were to do our cooking. Wayan warmly welcomed us and said we were to see his home as if it were ours. We were given a welcome drink of lime soda whilst he explained the traditional layout of his home. The home compound, consisted of smaller buildings, comprised of the outdoor family temple, the outdoor meeting room, the honeymoon room for the king and queen of the family (eldest couple) and the rooms for his children. Lots of other aspects of his house we didn't see but we soon realised his family was quite unique as only four people lived in his home due to him being adopted and therefore having no other family. The home next door housed 21 family members and the home across the road 37! All Balinese Hindi homes have the extended family of generations with the male staying at home and the females moving to the homes of their betrothed. Had Wayan and Puspa had larger family, their home would have had additional buildings to accommodate them. As it was, they were able to utilise their home for their business, which we were beginning to realise was something quite special. After hearing about the meeting rooms where the family gather to solve any worries, prepare the deceased for their cremation and hold wedding ceremonies, the fact that the family is only allowed to have one temple even if they own more than one home and that any newly wed couple in the family are locked in the honeymoon for 24 hours to ensure no harm comes to them, we were shown our way to the area for cooking.
Passing the purpose built, immaculate toilets and wash basin, we were introduced to their friends (staff but by no means would Puspa and Wayan refer to them as staff) in the outdoor kitchen, given a cup of lemongrass and ginger tea and taken to a large table with candles where we would eat our meal. The table overlooked the most stunning of views and housed local artists paintings and we knew that this was going to be a great memory. After a tour of the garden (example only as the large growing areas are much further away and significantly bigger) we had a good idea of where the many herbs, spices and fruits we were to use originated from. We were also introduced to the traditional Balinese cooking facility which is where the cooking class gets its name from - paon meaning oven. The rice is stored in the large pots and above is rice still on the stem hanging to dry. The coconut is a good source of fuel for the fire with the outer shell used- again sustainable living. The middle cooking pot on the stove is a steamer- the fish dish we made wrapped in banana leaves was to be cooked on here later. At the side there are some tongs- the Balinese see these symbolic of a couple joined together to work together.
Finally we met Puspa, our cookery teacher for the evening. Her smile, jokes and laugh helped the introductions and she immediately put us at ease. Explaining that I didn't cook, she didn't see that as a problem and assured me I'd be just fine- which I was!! Her constant praise was enough for anyone to think they were doing a brilliant job!!
Puspa introduced us to the herbs and spices in full form and when ready to use in cooking and we set off on preparing the mammoth banquet! I must point out that this was a private tour for two so I am certain that not only did we have the opportunity to try out even more cooking techniques, we also had a great deal to eat!!
So cooking: chopping, grinding, stirring, mixing- the kind of things I can cope with really! Luckily we didn't have to time anything, prepare or even wash up after! The lovely ladies were there to do that and the whole class ran like clockwork.
We enjoyed learning the traditional techniques and really felt that the whole process of cooking from scratch was rewarding and actually not as time consuming as you would think. However, we had used lots of ingredients as it is the fresh spices and herbs that really bring the dishes to life. Nearly all the dishes contained palm sugar and sweet and sour sauce so it is hardly surprising that I (Helen) enjoy Balinese food! We made a traditional yellow sauce which was used for many of the dishes. This was prepared in a traditional way using a large mortar and pestle and took some time!! When we asked whether electric blenders were used, Puspa's response was honest- in the hotels and in the city!! I couldn't help thinking that in Puspa's busy lifestyle there would be one in her own kitchen but she wasn't going to reveal it to us.
Our first dish was clear mushroom and vegetable soup. A mixture of vegetables, herbs, spices and stock and the dish was ready to eat!! So easy and most likely free on Slimming World!! What followed was a range of traditional Balinese dishes. Served to us by Puspa and her 'friends' on their heads, we were urged to enjoy the candlelit meal on our 'second honeymoon' to which Puspa kept happily referring to!
Looking at how the food was brought to us I can't help thinking that it is somewhat contrasting to Hindu tradition. From an earlier discussion with Arri, he had explained that food carried on the head was for the Gods and food served to human was on the shoulder. Despite Chris being referred to as 'the big boss' (their words not mine!!!), I think the tourism bit took over slightly!!
So we settled to a feast of Balinese food! Watch out if you're invited to the Parker's for dinner -you might be eating this!!
Clear mushroom and vegetable soup
Chicken coconut curry
Chicken sate
Snake bean and coconut salad
Steamed tuna in banana leaf
Balinese Gado Gado
Tempe in a spicy sauce
Yes there was a lot of food which to us is usually not a problem! However, even by our standards there would have been no way we could eat all the food but especially tonight as Chris had been experiencing his usual travellers stomach for the past 24 hours! It was reassuring to hear that Puspa and her family and neighbours ate any food left over and that we shouldn't feel sad if we couldn't manage it all.
So, after a feast fit for a king we made our dessert of boiled banana and jackfruit in palm sugar and coconut milk sauce (yummy- although we are getting slightly fed up of banana desserts!) with either tea or coffee. Wow!!! A delicious meal, wonderful hosts and yet another amazing experience.
We were driven back to our hotel for about 9pm and happily settled for an early night in our turned down four poster bed. But not before I headed to the balcony, bare footed and nearly stood on an enormous frog!! We had been warned about frogs and lizards in rooms at this hotel so I was just glad that this frog preferred the balcony to our room tonight!!! Zzzzzzzz.....
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