Whilst having breakfast on the balcony on our final morning in Ubud, we watched an elderly gentlemen tending to his rice crops.
As we waited for our cases to be taken down to reception so that we could check out and be ready for our next exciting day we thought about our time in Ubud. We had seen plenty sights around Ubud but had not ventured into the centre of Ubud during the day; I guess there is always next time. When the porter arrived to collect our luggage, I felt somewhat worried that there was only one so in usual Helen style, I decided to help. As we agreed to at least carry our small flight bags I made the most dramatic exit from our room. Yes- I went flying! I've spent all the holiday pointing out steps to Chris so he doesn't fall and then it was me who actually did it. With my ankle underneath me at a bit of a strange angle, I could help but have images of a pot and a delayed departure from Bali. Obviously I was overreacting so I swallowed my pride, stood up and managed to walk to Reception. Phew- no trip to Bali hospital this time! By the time we arrived in reception there were two porters behind us carrying our luggage- on their shoulders!! As you know, we don't travel light!! Checking out we spotted the stunning artwork and sculptures around us- all this was becoming the norm so we were starting to miss things.
So in the car we went and passing the usual Bali sights we chatted to Arri and told him about our cooking class. He was impressed with the food we had been able to cook and you could see by his reaction that they were foods he liked to eat. We were able to establish whether his family used the outdoor kitchen for cooking and he said not. His family of 25 who live together all have their own kitchens for each small family unit (along with four bathrooms to share) and certainly in the city where he lives, the traditional cooking methods are being used less. Just as we had thought.
Our first stop was to see a traditional Balinese dance. Unlike our last minute decision to see it the other night, we were pleased to see a tiered seating area with a good choice of seats available so we knew we would be able to see this time! Armed with the English overview of each act, we happily watched and managed to understand the dance! There was actually a lot of humour in it and we likened the performance to a pantomime with exaggerated characters and slapstick humour. A few local Balinese people were watching from the side and this was confirmed as they were laughing somewhat! The performance about good conquering over evil was enjoyable but not quite as elaborate with the 'wow factor' as the one performed in the dark in front of the palace. However- at least this time we could see and follow the story and see the musicians.
As we crossed the busy road confidently like a true Balinese, we got back in the vehicle which seemed much higher up than usual. This was confirmed as Chris got in and managed somehow to dramatically tear his shorts in the most worrying place!! Looks like his sarong would become his staple item of clothing both in and out of temples!!
Our next temple visit today was to Tirta Empul, the temple of the holy springs. Not only does the temple attract visitors from overseas but also Balinese from all over the island to come to bathe in the spring water to cleanse themselves spiritually.
The bales and statues here were particularly attractive, in fact it was only let down by the maze of tourist shops you were forced to walk through to exit the temple. Arri advised, keep your head down, keep walking it's all rubbish and you get ripped off.
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We had realised that we had got a really good guide who we could laugh with. He'd soon got the measure of us and Chris as usual became the subject of the jokes (nicely though) and Arri had realised that I was the chatty one. I had to laugh to myself later when I recalled Arri commenting on a ladies hairstyle (stylish I would say and Gareth would have been proud had he created it) as he had sneakily whispered in my ear to take a look at that!! Noticing that almost all Balinese ladies have long, straight hair, it was easy to understand how this mass of curls, quiff, shaven, asymmetrical haircut may have caused amusement for him. Here is a photo of Arri and Helen taken later in the day.
By the time it was lunchtime, we had previously arranged with Arri for him to take us to try to Babi guling (suckling pig). Admittedly it was slightly concerning as he had given us an overview of the day in the car and referred to the place we were eating at as Balinese but "not quite so dirty". Hmmmmm....well let's see. Upon arrival there were plenty local people, several tourists and a whole load of hawkers outside so we were slightly reassured (although Chris did comment later that he thought the guy selling food at the side of the road was where we were eating!). So two diet cokes and the only dish sold was promptly served to us. Sadly we didn't take a photo but served in a basket was rice and suckling pig which consisted of sliced pork, crackling, fried crackling (delicious), black pudding and a few vegetables. Surprisingly good!!! However....upon Chris' first forkful he produced what looked like a piece of meat surrounding two pig TEETH!!! Yes I kid you not. I couldn't help thinking that as tourists we might have been had! Putting the piece of meat with teeth to one side out of sight, we happily tucked into our meal and could see the appeal of the dish. When Arri arrived back to collect us we asked him about the teeth- yes they were teeth and the best part of the dish- apparently the Balinese eat the meat from around the teeth as its the most tasty and of course the head the most sacred. Another memorable experience for the Parkers!!
An hours journey ahead of us meant we could have a snooze if we so wished. We were beginning to realise that Arri liked an afternoon nap and took the opportunity to catch up on sleep at this time. Lucky for him we aren't demanding tourists who expect him to talk to us constantly! Of course we didn't mind and being as soft as I am, I liked the fact he managed to get some shut eye as I know his day begins at 5am and often ends much later than 7pm. One night he had only four hours NOT working! And we think we have busy jobs- a tour guide in the height of the season has some very long hours.
As we arrived at Tanah Lot the heat was definitely as Arri had described. It was the first time that we had felt the heat so extreme and we both commented that we had expected the whole of Bali to have been like this. Luckily for us it hasn't and that has helped me enjoy the sightseeing far more. We expected this visit to be very touristy and it was. However, it was a very beautiful sight and it was nice to see the ocean again.
The temple of the hole.
With clear blue sky, large crashing waves and a familiar smell of the sea-side you could have almost mistaken it for one of the lovely beaches in Cornwall. Tanah lot is a temple built on a rocky outcrop and is much photographed. A Hindu priest Nirartha followed a light to a spring and set up a temple, as he was a rival preacher he was forced out by the local holy man. He meditated so hard that he pushed the rock he was sitting on out into the sea creating the island temple. He dedicated it to the sea and left holy snakes to protect it. Heading down to the beach and towards the holy water spring, a number of people were trying it. I think anyone could have tried it but we opted not to do so as all the people in front of us were Balinese and dressed in traditional, white dress ready for the walk up the steps to the temple, which rightly so is only reserved for devotees. We also decided not to get too close to the holy Cobra snakes.
After getting wet feet from a rather large wave, we headed back to the car to our travel to our new and sadly, final destination- the glamorous Seminyak. We are staying at the Maca Villas and the sights we were greeted with made us smile as we were told to enjoy our honeymoon!!
A meal out at a local trendy restaurant followed where the difference between upmarket Seminyak and the other side of Bali became apparent. However, it made us realise that we had certainly chosen a holiday which allowed us to experience all of what beautiful Bali has to offer.
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